Deluxe Anchor Trolley on the Cuda by Trey Leggett | Jan 23, 2012 | Blogroll, Cuda, Featured Post, Fishing, JK Media, JK Team Posts, Saltwater, Saltwater Fishing, Team JK | 5 comments After receiving my new Jackson Kayak Cuda, I began to formulate how I wanted to rig it for the kind of fishing that I do. Usually the first thing I consider is an anchor trolley. I mainly fish inshore waters from South Carolina to Northern Florida that have their fair share of tidal current and winds. An anchor trolley is a must for proper kayak positioning in these conditions to target a given area effectively. Using the wind and/ or tidal current you can articulate the anchor trolley and transition your kayak where it points in a desirable direction. There are many different kinds of anchor trolley set-ups. Some are nearly the length of the kayak and some are shorter, some use basic single pulleys/ carabineers/ or inline pulleys, some are tied to an O-ring and some are sewn to the O-ring. On this kayak I have chosen to use one existing anchor point for the anchor trolley and create another. I sewed and shrink wrapped the sewing connections to give it a clean appearance and snag free performance. I give credit for this design to Mr. Kayak Bass Fishing himself, Chad Hoover. Here’s how it came together: First I located the rear bungee that is utilized to strap rods down (it is located on either side of the kayak behind the seat) and threaded a ¼” bungee through the existing bungee attachment point. I then added a single pulley and tied the bungee in a knot, securing the pulley to the anchor point. Since I like my anchor trolley’s somewhat shorter than most do, I marked a location just forward of the rod stagers to place a padeye for my forward anchor point. I drilled two 3/16” holes (using the padeye as a guide). I opted for screws to attach the padeye, using washers and nylock nuts on the inside. Prior to attaching I added a small dab of silicone to seal the holes. Using a piece of 4mm reflective deck line, I attached a stainless steel ring and threaded it into each pulley and back to the ring. Since my trolley will be sewn and shrink wrapped, I inserted a piece of 3/8” shrink wrap on the line and placed the line around the O-ring. I sewed the line together using doubled thread, tied it off, and pulled the shrink wrap over the sewn portion. I untied the other side of the O-ring, added another piece of shrink wrap, and pulled the line together until the bungee material at the pulleys were taught. I sewed the line together and pulled the shrink down over the sewn area. Using a heat gun, I shrunk both wraps until I could see the impressions of thread and it was tight fitting on the line. The anchor trolley can be pulled out away from the kayak when anchored off by the force of the wind or current, but it can only go as far as the bungee will let it. When you undo your anchor the trolley pops back into place, leaving a clean looking and functional piece of kayak fishing equipment. **Using marine grade stainless steel or nylon O-rings and stainless steel attachment nuts and screws will considerably lengthen the life of your set-up** 5 Comments Cory Routh on January 23, 2012 at 2:36 pm 4Nice job Drew. If you use hog rings (used to assemble crab pots) to crimp your lines. You can. Get your ring closer to the pulleys and use less heat shrink. Reply treyleggett on January 23, 2012 at 7:57 pm Good idea Cory, thanks for the tip! I need to get some for future anchor trolleys. Reply Ron Dunlap on November 16, 2012 at 8:06 pm I like your anchor system. I’ve seen some anchor systems that incorporate a cleat to secure the trolley line. Do you think a cleat would be useful or just in the way? Reply harry stoner on October 28, 2013 at 2:45 am I had an anchor trolley installed at the shop where I bought my Cuda 12. It’s so loose the ring hangs below the bat when I’m on the water. I’ve retied the knots, but after a few trips, the line is loose again. I undid the knots, pulled the line tight and used two zip ties on each side of the ring. Few trips and loose again. I’m thinking it’s the line they used. Can you use 1/4″ bungee for the whole thing? Reply Brooks Beatty on November 5, 2013 at 4:02 am Hey Harry, It does sound like it could be the line, but without seeing it, it is tough for me to say. I would go back over to the dealer where you bought it, I’m sure they would be willing to help you sort it out. Reply Submit a Comment Cancel replyYour email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *Comment * Name * Email * Website Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Δ
Cory Routh on January 23, 2012 at 2:36 pm 4Nice job Drew. If you use hog rings (used to assemble crab pots) to crimp your lines. You can. Get your ring closer to the pulleys and use less heat shrink. Reply
treyleggett on January 23, 2012 at 7:57 pm Good idea Cory, thanks for the tip! I need to get some for future anchor trolleys. Reply
Ron Dunlap on November 16, 2012 at 8:06 pm I like your anchor system. I’ve seen some anchor systems that incorporate a cleat to secure the trolley line. Do you think a cleat would be useful or just in the way? Reply
harry stoner on October 28, 2013 at 2:45 am I had an anchor trolley installed at the shop where I bought my Cuda 12. It’s so loose the ring hangs below the bat when I’m on the water. I’ve retied the knots, but after a few trips, the line is loose again. I undid the knots, pulled the line tight and used two zip ties on each side of the ring. Few trips and loose again. I’m thinking it’s the line they used. Can you use 1/4″ bungee for the whole thing? Reply
Brooks Beatty on November 5, 2013 at 4:02 am Hey Harry, It does sound like it could be the line, but without seeing it, it is tough for me to say. I would go back over to the dealer where you bought it, I’m sure they would be willing to help you sort it out. Reply