Whitewater Kayaking Ecuador | The Cofanes Adventure

There is not known river in Ecuador so uncertain like the Cofanes. There are several facts to prove
it: the place is actually really remote, the find the perfect water level is hazardous, and to get there you have to drive 4 hours with a truck from the last city. This makes a total of 8 hours from Baeza (the most famous place for kayaking in Ecuador). So, be sure to be in contact with Daniel from la Sofia Town, he can provide precise information at the put in of the Cofanes river so you can be confident about the water level before making the long way for nothing.

This river has to be run when the water is really low because rain could be hard and sudden in this jungle area. This is why there has been a lot of groups who unfortunately had to abandon the mission due to a hard rain the night before de D day. This was my case, I made two attempts before being able to run the Cofanes.

The past February, for the 3rd time, me and three friends went on our mission to the Cofanes. After running the Chingual on the way, we went to the little town of la Sofia to check the level before leaving the taxi. A warm welcome waited for us by Daniel’s wife at their house where we enjoyed the end of the day at this place where time seems to slow down. During the night we listened a truck arriving at the house. The next morning, we meet two Americans who came to paddle the Cofanes, so after a heavy breakfast we decided to join the two groups and we start early on the river. One hour and a half after the start we kicked off the first canyon. It was easy to run and really short. The group finally saw the type of whitewater we were going to paddle during the whole day. Ten minutes after this canyon we arrived to the 2nd canyon. It was really short as the first one but, with the biggest rapid: Narnia. A really impressive rapid that you can just scout from above with some consequences. The first one passed without security, so we sent two kayakers one after the other.

Thankfully, we all passed the rapid and the canyon enjoying good water moves and impressive nature. After this section, a 15km length canyon (the longest and biggest) with really good white water between two medium size walls was waiting for us. Being there makes you thing how lucky you are because just a few people are able to see this magic scenery. Along the way you can see waterfalls dropping into the canyon, spot incredible wildlife such as butterflies, birds, toucans, parrots and more. We felt lost on the jungle during 2 days with no rush and a bunch of thing to observe.

This canyon ends with harder rapids before getting into and unrunnable rapid. You have a one-hour portage to reach the last rapid before the confluence with the El dorado river which double the volume of the water. Once in the Dorado river you have to find a camp place to pass the night, and that is always my favorite part. You set your camp in a magical place, whitewater, rock beach, big cliffs at the front and fire to cook, the best moment to relax yourself before sleep in your hammock. The Cofanes is a river that you only run at low water. On the other side, El dorado has a bigger river bed, so don’t worry about a rainy night it will just be better for you at the next day.

The El dorado is not hard but, holds a great navigation. You are now on a middle – low volume river with 2 cliffs and really good whitewater. There are no portages and scouts on this river, just the perfect combination to paddle and enjoy all the wildlife which is way more present here, and the really rare geological formations.

The river calms down before meeting the Chingual and you will stop 15 minutes after on the first place close to road: a big 45 degree wall of old lava to mark your end. Be sure to arrange a taxi there, you’re still far from the city. On the way back to Lumbaqui, the closest town, you just dream about the other rivers, tributaries, of this area and imagine the potential they have when you remember all the beauties you just paddled. Check out the videos from this adventure!

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